Every year we have our inspection. This does not mean we should clean then and fail then wait for re-inspection. This should be done all the time not once a year. Your wasting Larry’s time (trust me he would rather be working on something more important like keeping the building safe from real issues.) So here are some tips.
Clutter is one of your biggest enemy’s. You no longer live in a 3 bedroom house so try not to fit that into your domicile. If you have not thought of it in 6 months you probably don’t need it. Throw it away.
Here is a great tip: Consider this you do have a finite space in a room. If you bring something home take something out. It’s not rocket science.
Bathroom Cleaning
Step 1: Vacuum and dust
On the rare occasion that the W Union Square receives a complaint, “it usually has to do with finding hairs on the tile or floor in the bathroom,” Erika says. Her team’s goal is to make sure that never happens. They work from top to bottom, dusting light fixtures and shelves with micro-fiber cloths before vacuuming floors and crevices.
Step 2: Heat up surfaces
Heating tile and the tub just 10 degrees above the normal air temperature “doubles the effectiveness” of alkaline cleansers, Jenny says. Her staff fills the bottom of the tub with a couple inches of the “hottest water they can draw from the tap” and lets it sit for a few minutes. Erika’s staff also throws hot water over the tiles, shower and tub.
Step 3: Spray
Drain the tub, then spray an antibacterial cleaner on tile walls, tub, counters, sink, toilet and floor. Work from top to bottom, starting at the top of shower walls, and spraying down to the tub and inside the toilet bowl.
Step 4: Spread
Use a sponge or cloth to spread the cleanser around evenly on tile surfaces.
Step 5: Sit
Disinfectants need contact time in order to work. Erika’s team lets the cleanser sit for five to seven minutes inside the toilet bowl and on surfaces.
Step 6: Scrub
Use a scrub brush or nonscratch abrasive pad to scrub every square inch of the tub and tiles. Both housekeeping experts swear by Mr. Clean Magic Eraser, especially for hard-to-remove gray rings inside the tub.
Step 7: Rinse
This is the most important step, in Jenny’s opinion. The chemicals in cleansers are designed to attract soil and particles, she points out. If you don’t rinse after spraying your cleanser, dirt is going to stick to it and build up and “be even more troublesome.”
Step 8: Dry
Use clean, dry cotton cloths or rags to thoroughly dry all surfaces. Jenny recommends using color-coded cloths for cleaning ? blue for glass and mirrored surfaces, yellow for the toilet, and pink for tub and sinks. That way, you never make the mistake of wiping off the sink with a cloth that was used to dry the toilet.
Step 9: Glass and mirrors
Spray the mirror and other glass with a glass cleanser and wipe dry.
Step 10: Floors
Exit out of the bathroom by rinsing, wiping and drying the floor.
Linoleum Floor Quick Cleaning
What you will need:
- Vacuum Cleaner
- Mop (sponge or cloth—preferably self-wringing)
- Bucket
- Hot Water
- Mild Dish Soap
- Old Towels
- Rubber gloves (optional)
Instructions
Vacuum the floor thoroughly on “hard floor” setting, paying special attention to under cabinets, appliances and corners where dust accumulates.
- Put 6 or 7 drops of dish soap in the bucket and fill with a gallon of hot water.
- Dip mop in soapy water and wring thoroughly to avoid putting excess water on the floor
- Mop one section of floor at a time (about 5’ x 5’ per mop-dip), rinsing mop in soapy water and wringing thoroughly before each section.
- When finished mopping entire floor, rinse mop thoroughly; empty and rinse bucket, and fill with clean hot water.
- Dip mop in clean hot water, wring thoroughly, and rinse-mop sections of floor with the clean, hot water.
- Using old towels, dry floors (linoleum contains grooves and if not sealed properly, will quickly absorb any excess liquid, giving the floor a dull , dingy look).
Linoleum Floor Deep Cleaning
Once or twice a year, your floor will need a deep scrubbing, especially if it has deep grooves or designs.
What you will need:
- Vacuum Cleaner
- Nylon-bristol scrub brush.
- Mop (sponge or cloth—preferably self-wringing)
- Bucket
- Hot Water
- Mild Dish Soap
- Old Towels
- Rubber gloves (optional)
Instructions:
- Vacuum the floor thoroughly on “hard floor” setting, paying special attention to under cabinets, refrigerator and corners where dust accumulates.
- Put 6 or 7 drops of dish soap in the bucket and fill with a gallon of hot water.
- Dip scrub brush in soapy water and scrub floor in a circular motion, dipping the scrub brush in the soapy water as needed.
- When done scrubbing entire floor, empty and rinse bucket, and fill with clean hot water. Rinse floor using same steps as #5-7 above.
Restoring the Finish
After years of wear and/or improper cleaning, your linoleum may loose its shine. If your linoleum appears dull or dingy, you may want to refinish it.
What you will need:
- Nylon-bristol scrub brush.
- Mop
- Ammonia
- Bucket
- Hot Water
- Old towels
- Good quality floor wax**
- Clean cloth or soft rags
- Rubber Gloves (recommended)
Instructions:
- Using the mop, spread straight ammonia on the floor, working in sections.
- Allow to sit for a few minutes and scrub with the nylon scrub brush.
- When the entire floor has been scrubbed with ammonia, remove remaining residue by rinsing with a mop dipped in a bucket of hot water.
- Wipe dry using old towels
- Apply floor wax according to the directions on the label (generally, liquid floor waxes should be spread evenly with a cloth or rag and allowed to dry completely before adding a second coat).
- Wait at least one day before washing floor.
* Please note that ammonia can be a dangerous substance and should never be mixed with any other cleaners.
**You can find a good liquid floor wax for your linoleum floor at most janitorial supply stores, or at janitorial supply websites.
Additional Tips
- GOING GREEN: Many soaps and floor cleaners can contain harsh chemicals that are not safe for the environment. As an inexpensive and environmentally friendly alternative to traditional cleaners, add ½ cup of distilled white vinegar or apple cider vinegar to 1 gallon of water.
- NEVER use harsh cleaners, high PH (base) cleaners, or abrasive cleaners on your linoleum floor as it will corrode the linoleum and ruin the finish.
- Linoleum floors are easy to clean and most stuck on dirt will come off with a little extra elbow grease. However, for those tough stains, try using a foaming cleanser, such as “Scrubbing Bubbles” and wipe with a damp cloth or sponge. The foaming cleanser should NOT be used to clean the entire floor, but only when necessary for tough stains or problem spots.
How to clean oven
For Regular Non-Self-Cleaning Ovens
Each time the oven is cooled off, wipe up any spills with a hot, wet cloth. If you do this each time, food will not build up or burn onto the oven surfaces. Some people prefer to cover the bottom of the oven with aluminum foil, but you’ll need to make sure that no vents are blocked if you choose this prevention trick. For really stubborn stains or buildup, you’ll need an oven cleaner and a plastic scrubbing pad or brush. Make sure you use good ventilation when using an oven cleaner.
Baking soda can be used on regular non-self-cleaning ovens as a gentle abrasive that also soaks up grease and oily stains.
What You Need
- Non-Self Cleaning Only: Plastic Scrub Brush or Pad
- Damp Cloths
- Mild Detergents
- Non-Self Cleaning Only: Oven Cleaner
- Non-Self Cleaning Only: Aluminum Foil (optional)
How to clean your refrigerator.
Here’s How:
- Remove the FoodToss any old or expired food into the trash. Remove the food that is still good to a cooler with ice to keep it safe and cold while you clean the remainder of the refrigerator.
- Remove Shelves and DrawersTake out all removable drawers and shelves and set them aside. Drawers and shelves that are made of metal or plastic can actually be washed with hot water and dish soap right away, but glass and ceramic pieces need to gradually warm up to room temperature before being washed with hot water to prevent cracking and breaking.
- Wipe Down Refrigerator InteriorUse a clean cloth with hot water and a mild detergent like dish soap. Work from top to bottom to prevent dripping on surfaces that are already clean. Tough stuck on spills may need a plastic, non-abrasive scrubber. Another option, is to lay a warm wet cloth over the spilled area for a few minutes. The spilled area will be softer and easier to wipe away. Rinse cloths thoroughly and/or use multiple cloths to insure cleanliness. Pay special attention to the bottom crevices and back of the refrigerator where spills tend to migrate. Finally wipe down the interior doors.
- Clean Shelves and DrawersNow that your shelves and drawers have had time to warm up gradually, take a few moments and clean and dry them thoroughly. Be careful, especially when handling slippery glass shelving. Dishwashing gloves may be helpful to prevent breakage.
- Dry InteriorUsing a clean dry cloth or towel. Wipe down the interior of the refrigerator to make sure it is completely dry. Don’t forget to dry the interior doors as well.
- Replace the FoodPut the food back into the refrigerator. Now is also a good time to wipe off any jars or containers of food that may need it, like a sticky jelly jar or a crusty salad dressing lid. Take care to use clean cloths when working with your food jars and dry them throughly as well.
- Clean Out the FreezerUse the same methods listed above to clean out a freezer. The great thing about freezers is that they rarely have spills and need to be scrubbed out much less often. You may need to only check for and remove expired food. If the freezer does require more thorough cleaning, you can use the same methods used in the refrigerator.
- Clean the Outside
- Starting from the top, wipe down and clean the exterior of the refrigerator using hot/warm water and a mild dish soap. If you have a stainless steel refrigerator, you’ll need to use a soft non-scratching rag, and vinegar or a window cleaner to keep the surface shiny. Don’t forget to clean the rubber gasket seal around the edges of the door using dish soap and warm water. Dirt and grime can collect here and cause the seal to crack.
HOW TO make a really well-tucked bed
If you want a star by your name, include the following step.
From the Art of Manliness website, instructions for “How to Make a Bed You Can Bounce a Quarter Off Of.” I have to say that I hate sleeping under tightly tucked sheets (especially at the bottom! The feet must be free to poke out and catch a breeze when the internal temperature spikes!), but there’s something perversely aesthetically appealing about the overall kentuckyness of a really well-made bed. The secret, apparently, is in the hospital corners.
Starting at the foot of the bed, tuck the end of the sheet between the mattress and box springs. Don’t just bunch the sheet between the mattress and the box springs, rather ensure that the sheet lays smoothly between the two.
Go to the head of the bed and pull the other end of the sheet taut. Tuck the sheet under the mattress as you did at the foot of the bed.
Go back to the foot of the bed and pick a corner to make your first hospital corner. Grab the sheet draping from the side about 16 inches from the foot of the bed (Diagram A).
Place one finger on top of the corner, lifting the sheet with the other hand (Diagram B).
Tuck lower drape under the mattress (Diagram C).
Hold the corner in place and bring the sheet over. You want the fold on the top sheet to form a 45-degree angle. That’s standard for the Army (Diagram D).
Tuck the rest of the side of the sheet under the mattress, working your way to the head of the bed (Diagram E). Repeat on all four corners of the bed. As you tuck, take your hand and smooth out any wrinkles that may form in the sheet on the top of the bed.